American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Bhutan, Masa Gang, 1985

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Masa Gang, 1985. More information has been received on the first ascent of Masa Gang or Masang Kang than was reported on page 211 of A.A.J., 1986. The Kyoto University Alpine Club was led by Ryohei Hori. The main group of the expedition left Thimpu on August 30,1985 and on September 13 got to Base Camp at 5025 meters on a yak pasture called Dreteng three kilometers southeast of the Toma La. Advance Base was established on September 16 two kilometers west at 5400 meters. From there the route up the mountain went south. On September 23 they set up Camp I at 6075 meters below the foresummit. There was steep snow-and-ice climbing before they set up Camp II on the top of the foresummit at 6417 meters on October 8. Camp III was established on October 12 between the foresummit and the main summit. They measured altitudes which seem to differ from those previously given and believe the summit was about 6800 meters (22,310 feet). On October 13, 1985 the summit was reached by Goro Hitomi, Toshihiro Tsukihara, Kotaro Yokoyama and Shigeki Nakayama, on October 14 by Dr. Kozo Matsubayashi, Hironori Ito, Shinya Takeda and Masanaru Takai and on October 15 by Yasuhiko Kamizono, Hironori Ito, Koichi Nanno and Tadao Okada.

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