South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Aguja Guillaumet

Publication Year: 1987.

Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Aguja Guillaumet. Several ascents in late 1985 and early 1986 were not reported in A.A.J., 1986. Frenchman Yves Astier soloed the American route on Fitz Roy in 12 hours on December 29, 1985. With J. M. Boucansaud he climbed the Maestri bolt route on Cerro Torre on January 14 and 15. Austrian Thomas Bubendorfer made a remarkably rapid climb of the American route on Fitz Roy solo in 7½ hours from the col in mid January. Reaching the summit on February 10, Americans Michael Bearzi and Eric Winkleman climbed Cerro Torre in three days via the Ferrari west-face route. A full account and beautiful pictures of this climb appear in Rock and Ice of July-August 1986. The summit of Aguja Guillaumet was also visited in early January 1986 by three Argentine groups: Jorge Sonntag, Máximo Schneider and Oscar Pandolfi; G. Anguilar and Sebastián Sturla; and Daniel Puy and Sebastian Letemenia. The Argentines Sebastián de la Cruz and Gabriel Ruiz climbed Guillaumet on February 8.