South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Fitz Roy, Nearly Complete Ascent of the North Face, Tehuelche Route

Publication Year: 1987.

Fitz Roy, Nearly Complete Ascent of the North Face, Tehuelche Route. More details are now available about the new Italian route on the north face of Fitz Roy, mentioned on page 203 of A.A.J., 1986. This lay between the 1984 Polish route and the French route of 1979 done by Afanassieff. The climbers were Carlo Barbolini, Massimo Boni, Mauro Petronio, Angelo Pozzi, Mauro Rontini and Marco Sterni. They climbed the first third of the 6000-foot-high face on December 29 and 30, 1985, but they were plagued by bad weather and winds up to 100 mph and turned back. On January 17, 1986, after seven days on the face, they got to their high point, 50 meters below the summit, where they joined the Afanassieff route. They took another long day to make the descent. There were 46 rope-lengths. It went 90% free with mostly UIAA difficulty of VI + and 25 meters of VII as well as direct aid of A1 and A2.