AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Bolivia, Nevado Apachita Cuno, First Ascent, and Other Climbs

Nevado Apachita Cuno, First Ascent, and other Climbs, 1983. From July 10 to 28, 1983, a party of ten, sent by the Club Andino Córdoba, was active in the area of Chachacomani. We placed a Base Camp in Hichucota valley. Several of us ascended first Janco Anco (c. 5300 meters, 17,389 feet) and Huila Llojeta (5244 meters, 17,207 feet) in order to become acclimatized. On July 13, Janco Huyo (5512 meters, 18,084 feet) was climbed via its southeast ridge by M. Badra, J. Gudiño and M. Schneider, while the rather difficult southeast face and glacier was climbed by F. Marocchi, G. Raynié, A. Vargas and me. The two women that were part of our party, María Bustos and Amalia Agued, unsuccessfully attempted the northwest glacier of Cerro Negruni (5400 meters, 17,717 feet). We then transferred our Base Camp over the Mallo pass to the Escondido Lake basin, from which the two women, Schneider and M. Aprile ascended Jiska Pata (5430 meters, 17,815 feet) while Marocchi, Raynié, Vargas and I climbed Janco Laya (5545 meters, 18,190 feet) by its northwest glacier (both on July 19). The first ascent of the fine rock tower of Torre Aimara (c. 4800 meters, 15,748 feet) was performed the 21st by Aprile, Raynié, Schneider and Vargas. We again transferred our Base Camp, this time into the Chachacomani valley. At no time did we have any outside help. We made attempts on several peaks of the Chachacomani group but we only succeeded in accomplishing the first ascent of Nevado Apachita Cuno (c. 5600 meters, 18,375 feet) by its northwest glacier (Aprile, Badra, Raynié and Schneider, July 27).

Alberto Tarditti, Club Andino Córdoba, Argentina