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South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, Illampu, Haucaña, Cordillera Real

Ancohuma, Illampu, Haucaña, Cordillera Real. Our expedition of 19 Aus- trians left La Paz on July 25 for Millipaya. From there we went by truck to Mina Ancohuma. The next morning we traversed for two hours to Base Camp at 4500 meters below the Nevados de Millipaya. This is the best way to reach the Illampu-Ancohuma massif from the northwest. Our first camp was on the glacier between Ancohuma and Illampu at 5100 meters and our second at 5800 meters below the west ridge of Ancohuma (6430 meters, 21,095 feet). This was climbed on July 30 by Walter Groher, Reinhard Streif, Horst Geringer, Richard Tweraser, Erhard Kirchmayr, Peter Lengauer and Heinz Helminger, on July 31 by Ossi Pletschko, Ernst Gritzner, Alfred Gaugg and Fritz Neumeister, and on August 1 by Rudolf Wurzer, Rudolf Schönauer, Joschi Auer, Erwin Aberl and me. Manfred Brunner became altitude sick and was brought down by me from the highest camp. On August 3 Streif and Groher climbed Illampu (6362 meters, 20,872 feet) by a new route on the southwest face left of the German route, which they joined on the upper part. On August 7 Lengauer, Helminger, Pletschko, Tweraser and I climbed P 5960 (19,554 feet), P 5970 (19,587 feet) and Pirámide (5906 meters, 19,377 feet), northwest of Haucaña. Two days later, Wurzer and Schönauer climbed the same mountains. Lengauer and Helminger found a new route on Haucaña (6206 meters, 20,360 feet) from the southwest. Brunner and Aberl climbed a nameless 5400-meter peak northwest of Pico Schulze. After returning to La Paz, Groher, Melminger and Lengauer climbed Huayna Potosí via the south face and were back in La Paz after only 12 hours.

Sepp Friedhuber, Naturfreunde Oberösterreich, Austria