South America, Peru-Cordillera Huayhuash, Sarapo Southwest Face

Publication Year: 1987.

Sarapo Southwest Face. Our expedition consisted of Peruvian Alberto Callupe, Swiss Louis Deuber, Austrian Richard Franzl, German Hans Zebrowski and me. After trekking in the region, we established our Base Camp below Sarapo Qocha. Our objective was Sarapo’s southwest face. We placed a camp in the glacial basin below the face at 5100 meters. The approach from Base Camp was on the right side of the icefall where we were least endangered by falling ice. We placed 100 meters of rope. We set out on the face on July 20 and got to the summit on the morning of July 22 after two bivouacs and 20 hours of climbing. The face averaged between 55° and 60° with the steepest pitch at 80°. We believe this to be the second ascent of the face, which was first climbed by Casimiro Ferrari and other Italians in 1979.

Cestimír Lukeš, Czech living in Switzerland