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South America, Peru-Cordillera Huayhuash, Rasac, West Face, Left Buttress

Rasac, West Face, Left Buttress. On July 17 Guus Lambregts and I approached the west face of Rasac from our Base Camp at Jahuacocha. From the second lake at 4620 meters in the Quebrada Rasac we climbed easy rocks and reached the north rim of the glacier, which we followed to the right. During an earlier attempt, we had to return from our bivouac under the face because of bad weather, which lasted for three days. There are three buttresses on the face. On July 18 we climbed the left buttress on the left side, on the right of a huge sérac wall. It is probably a new route. We reached the summit of Rasac at five P.M. We descended the east face in the full moon, rappelling, and reached Jahuacocha at three A.M. On July 23 we tried to climb the east face of Tsacra Grande from the col between Tsacra Chico Oeste and Tsacra Grande. We had to give up 150 meters below the summit because of dangerous snow.

Roland Bekendam, Koninklijke Nederlandse Alpen Ver entging