American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Cayesh and Chacraraju Ascents and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Cayesh and Chacraraju Ascents and Tragedy. From May 30 to June 2 Czechoslovaks Bretislav Husicka and Petr Hapala made an alpine-style new route of extreme difficulty on the right side of the west face of Cayesh. The climb was on ice and mixed terrain. They were to the left of the yellow ropes left by the Italians. They then made a direct route on the north face of Chacraraju which emerged on the north ridge. This was doubtless the finest route done this year in the Cordillera Blanca. On much of it, it was impossible to belay. On the descent of the 1984 south-face route, Husicka was swept to his death by an avalanche coming from the summit cornices.

Philippe Beaud, Club Alpin Français

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