American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Rinrijirca, Southeast Face, and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Rinrijirca, Southeast Face, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of British climbers Martin Hair, David Hood, Roger Payne and me from New Zealand. We set up our first Base Camp on May 17 in the Santa Cruz valley at the end of Taullicocha at 4250 meters. Payne and Hair made a new route on the southeast face of Rinrijirca (5810 meters, 19,062 feet). On May 19 they bivouacked at the glacier’s edge at 4810 meters. They ascended the southeast face and a couloir on May 20, emerging onto the east ridge at 5500 meters to ascend the north slopes. They descended via the Rinrijirca-Taulliraju col. Two attempts on the east ridge failed because of bad snow conditions. We all climbed Al- pamayo by the southwest face, Payne soloed Kitaraju by its north face and Payne and I climbed Huascarán by the normal route. Attempts on Taulliraju’s north and south faces failed. We also climbed Rasac in the Cordillera Huayhuash as reported in that section.

Julie-Ann Clyma, Alpine Club

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.