American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Notable Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca. A number of excellent ascents were made in 1986 in the Cordillera Blanca. The Italian pair Paola Gigliotti and Massimo Marchini climbed San Juan from the Quebrada Cayesh on June 1 and Milpocraju via a variant 200 meters to the left of the 1985 English route. Slovenes (Yugoslavs) Danilo Tic and Milan Romih on May 11 made a new route on the east face of Quitaraju with a 800-meter rise of 55° to 60° snow and ice, which they climbed in only three hours. They made a new route on the north face of Chopicalqui on May 25 between the 1982 route of Eric Dossin and the 1981 Rolland-Sigayret-Roberts route. They also climbed Huandoy Este by the northeast face and north ridge; they later traversed Huandoy Norte and Este. They ascended by the normal routes Caraz I, Huascarán Sur, Artesonraju, Ranrapalca and Chinchey. Spanish Catalans José Luis Sasot and Carles Vallés climbed Huandoy Este by the northeast face and north ridge, Huascarán Norte by the 1974 Italian route on the northwest ridge, the southwest face of Alpamayo and the northeast face of Quitaraju. The northeast face of Huandoy Este was climbed on July 25 by Spaniards Lorenzo Ortas, José Murciano and Javier Oliván, on July 30 by Spaniard Burrueco and me (Peruvian) and on August 4 by Spaniards Miguel Serrano, José Javier Quiñones and Swiss Bertrand Gachoud. Oliván and Burrueco then climbed Alpamayo and Quitaraju. On July 29 Ortas and Murciano left the moraine camp of Pisco, climbed the couloir to the col between Huandoy Norte and Este; on the 30th they climbed the northeast face of Huandoy Norte to within 100 meters of the summit, where they bivouacked again before reaching the summit the next morning. In July Spaniard Xabier Ansa soloed the west ridge of Huascarán Sur in a single day. The climb was repeated by Murciano and Miguel Ausin in August. Spaniards Antonio Urbieto, Lorenzo Buil and Marcos Mairal climbed the east face of Huascarán Norte with two bivouacs in July. I soloed Chopicalqui in seven hours on June 12.

Walter Silverio, Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Perú

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.