American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Ingolffjeld, North Face Attempt, East Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Ingolffjeld, North Face Attempt, East Greenland. Our expedition was composed of Slovene Peter Podgornik, Italians Ferruccio Svaluto Moreolo, Pierantonio Zago, Sergio De Longhi and me as leader. We hoped to climb for the first time the north face of Ingolffjeld, near Kangertigtiatsiaq Fjord. After leaving Tasiilaq, on June 18 we ascended the unexplored Angakkoq Glacier to Base Camp at the foot of the north face of Ingolffjeld. For 12 days it stormed. On June29 we finally could glimpse the snow-laden face. Notwithstanding the snow, on June 30 Podgornik, Moreolo and I started up a couloir of 60° to 80° ice. After 23 hours we had climbed 1030 meters up the wall to the crest where we rested for four hours. A radio report announced the arrival of more bad weather. We immediately descended with 23 rappels of 60 meters and a 50-meter traverse. We did not continue from our high point to the summit.

Gianni Pais Becher, Club Alpino Italiano

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