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North America, Canada, Canadian Coast Range, Mount Waddington Area, New Routes

Mount Waddington Area, New Routes. Between July 20 and August 2, six of us from Seattle camped at the Combatant-Waddington col, climbing four new routes. On our first day, Dan Cauthorn and Steve Mascioli climbed the central buttress of Combatant (III 5.8). Two days later, John Stoddard and I did a right-trending couloir leading up to the Angel Glacier on Mount Waddington’s north face. We gained the main couloir via a short icy couloir which avoided exposure to ice cliffs above. The next morning Dan and Steve followed our tracks. While we four were returning from our ascent of Waddington, Dan McNerthney and his brother Pat climbed the central rock buttress immediately to the right of the Flavelle-Lane ice route (V, 5.10). After this week of activity we welcomed a storm, but we were eager to get out of the tents after five days. Pat and I repeated part of the traverse that Seri and friends had done the year before. Steve and Dan Cauthorn repeated the northeast spur of Asperity, and John and Dan McNerthney climbed a new route on the left side of the Skywalk pillar on Mount Combatant, “Walk on the Wild Side” (III, 5.11; 8 pitches).

Mark Bebie