American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Hell Roaring Canyon, 1984 and 1985

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Hell Roaring Canyon, 1984 and 1985. On October 31, 1984 I completed the first ascent of the Witch, one of several Wingate Towers, roughly a quarter of the way up the canyon near its south rim. The route, Midnight Rider (III, 5.7, A3), is highly aesthetic and recommendable, consisting mostly of clean A1. A previous attempt on the main tower of the group, the Warlock, by Dave Mon- deau and me was thwarted by bad weather, lack of time and a relatively minor rockfall injury. We returned in May, 1985 with Dave Kruse and used an alternative approach, rappelling into the canyon from the rim. This attempt was successful in reaching the summit via a spectacular route that actually climbs through the tower from northwest to southeast, but the rock was so loose that it cannot be recommended.

Ron Olevsky

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