American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Utah, Gates of Hell, South Side of Provo Canyon, 1985

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Gates of Hell, South Side of Provo Canyon, 1985. This climb, done on November 27, 1985 by Thomas Koch and Bill Robins, ascends the major face west of the ice climb, Stairway to Heaven. Bush whacking and scree climbing from a parking lot a half mile west of the Bridal Veil parking lot got them to a large alcove below the center of the face. Unprotected climbing over the alcove roof (5.10) led them up two pitches of 5.7 limestone to a longer headwall. The headwall went at 5.10, the crux being a 30-foot layback on a broken, unstable flake. Two more pitches of 5.7 to 5.9 limestone led to a large ledge and thesandstone climbing. They traversed 50 feet west and climbed a large dihedral which splits the upper face for three pitches. The last pitch on this good sandstone wanders up to the capping forest. (IV, 5.10 + , varied climbing on loose, dangerous limestone and good sandstone, 12 pitches.)

Brian Smoot

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