AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, California-Sierra Nevada, Bear Creek Spire, P 13,600 and Ruby Lake Wall

Bear Creek Spire, P 13,600 and Ruby Lake Wall. In December of 1985, Kevin Ball and I made the first winter ascent of the east ridge of Bear Creek Spire, finding it much as Galen Rowell had described it: long and enjoyable. In February of 1987, I returned with Greg Orton to make probably the first ascent of the north buttress. P 13,600 rises on Wheeler Ridge, east of Rock Creek Canyon just below Tamarack Lakes. In December of 1982, I climbed the snow- and-ice gully right of the summit (5.4 rock, 50° ice) and in May of 1984 returned with Susan Williams to climb the arête left of the gully which rises directly to the summit (5.8). Both are probably new routes. To the north of the main Ruby Wall ascended by Galen Rowell in 1982 and 1983 lies a steep wall hidden from the lake. In October Bill Kerwin and I made the first ascent of “The Wall of Flying Reptiles” via the Pteradon (5.10, Al.) We followed the prominent comer system with an ever-widening crack on the left wall for five pitches.

Robert J. Parker, Unaffiliated