American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California-Sierra Nevada, Mama Told Me Not To Come, Voodoo Dome, The Needles

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Mama Told Me Not To Come, Voodoo Dome, The Needles. In October, Steve Brower and I climbed this “indirect-direct” start to the White Punks on Dope route. Starting left of the normal start, several bolts protect difficult moves leading to a belay at the edge of a giant arch. Two easier face pitches take one to the dihedral pitch on White Punks. We found evidence of a previous ascent which had traversed in from the side on the first pitch, and we used their anchor bolts. Higher, though, we felt compelled to remove two bolts that were placed next to good cracks or knobs. (III, 5.11.)

E. C. Joe, Stonemasher Alpine Club

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