North America, United States, California-Sierra Nevada, Watchtower and Castle Rocks, Sequoia National Park, 1984 and 1985

Publication Year: 1987.

Watchtower and Castle Rocks, Sequoia National Park, 1984 and 1985. The easily accessible and exposed 8-pitch route, Watch Out, is on the central main face of the Watchtower about 30 minutes easy hiking from the Lodgepole Campground. Ron Carson, my wife Eve and I completed this route on July 28, 1984. It has several difficult traverses and requires route-finding capabilities. All natural protection was used and the rock was generally clean and solid, but not throughout. The only aid on this 1000-foot, steep climb was a 10-foot section near the start of the fifth pitch. This section would go free if the crack were cleaned or a large needle-like loose flake were pushed off. If free-climbed, it would probably not be harder than the rest of the route. Watch Out (IV, 5.11, A3) is between the Timex route (A.A.J., 1984, page 165) and the nose of the Watchtower. A trail to the top of the Watchtower provides an easy descent to the Generals Highway. On May 26, 1985 Patrick Paul, Ron Carson, my wife Eve and I completed Silver Lining (IV, 5.9) on the Fin of Castle Rocks massif. Ninelong pitches on some of the most beautiful face climbing in California make this climb a must for the High Sierra climber. The setting is spectacular, the rock excellent and the route has substantial 5.9 on every pitch. Natural protection is supplemented with bolts where needed, but often there are thought-provoking runouts. The route ascends the longest section of the west face of the Fin for over 1100 feet and passes the prominent block on its right side during the seventh pitch. Access to the Fin is via an old WPA trail which ascends the 4000-foot gain from the bridge at Hospital Rock. Three days are recommended for the climb and water is usually available in the gully between the Fin and Castle Rock Spire for a few weeks after Memorial Day. A 165-foot rope is recommended. A rappel route starting at a manzanita bush near the top of the Fin’s narrow summit ridge avoids a tedious climb down. Two ropes are needed and three bolts have been placed at each rappel point.

Herb Laeger, Unaffiliated