AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

North America, United States, California-Sierra Nevada, Mount Russell, West Face

Mount Russell, West Face. This route starts just right of the Rowell-Jones route, and left of a route I reported last year (A.A.J. 1986), in a left-leaning dihedral. After two pitches, I led up and left, crossing the Rowell-Jones to the base of a small right-facing comer. Delicate laybacking and face climbing takeone to a hand-crack that is followed to the summit ridge. (III-IV, 5.10). Mount Russell, Direct South Face. This route follows the major crack system in the center of the south face. Third class leads into the amphitheater between the Curved Arete and the south buttress. We started in a hand-crack below a large right-facing dihedral. Higher, a left-facing dihedral is entered (crux). Both of these routes were done by Rich Romano and me in July. (III, 5.10.)

Fred Yackulic