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North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Travel in the Austera Peak Region and Primus Peak, North Ridge

Travel in the Austera Peak Region and Primus Peak, North Ridge. From the southwest, access to the northeast rampart of Austera Peak is a logistical hassle. On September 7 I climbed Austera Peak, then down-climbed toward the northwest, to the first major notch. Here, I descended the 45° snow-and-ice slope to the North Klawatti Glacier. The bergschrund crossing was easy. I then climbed Primus Peak. Where the North Klawatti Glacier joins the west ridge, I descended a couloir to reach the unnamed glacier north of Primus, which I traversed to the north ridge. The 1000-foot ridge is made up of blocks and towers of good rock, but is somewhat loose. I stayed on the crest unless forced to either side by difficulties. Toward the top, the ridge goes through a section of banded rock common in this region. This provided enjoyable climbing to low fifth class. Time: 1 hour on the ridge. I returned by the same route. It is unlikely that this route of approach has been used before.

Mark Bebie