American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Travel in the Austera Peak Region and Primus Peak, North Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Travel in the Austera Peak Region and Primus Peak, North Ridge. From the southwest, access to the northeast rampart of Austera Peak is a logistical hassle. On September 7 I climbed Austera Peak, then down-climbed toward the northwest, to the first major notch. Here, I descended the 45° snow-and-ice slope to the North Klawatti Glacier. The bergschrund crossing was easy. I then climbed Primus Peak. Where the North Klawatti Glacier joins the west ridge, I descended a couloir to reach the unnamed glacier north of Primus, which I traversed to the north ridge. The 1000-foot ridge is made up of blocks and towers of good rock, but is somewhat loose. I stayed on the crest unless forced to either side by difficulties. Toward the top, the ridge goes through a section of banded rock common in this region. This provided enjoyable climbing to low fifth class. Time: 1 hour on the ridge. I returned by the same route. It is unlikely that this route of approach has been used before.

Mark Bebie

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