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North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Mount Shuksan, Lower Curtis Glacier and Southwest Face

Mount Shuksan, Lower Curtis Glacier and Southwest Face. On August 24, John Stull and I completed a route up steep ice in a broad gully on the upper right side of the Lower Curtis Glacier. Easier but dangerous séracs on the right side forced us left up two pitches of ice adjoining the rock. From above the second icefall we traversed left and ascended class three-and-four rock for 1500 feet up the right side of the southwest face. Higher on the face we followed a rib of better rock that produced several fifth-class pitches. From the top of the face we followed the Sulphide Glacier to the summit.

Alan Kearney