The Pyramid, North Rib. This rib begins in MacMillan Cirque 2500 feet below the summit of the Pyramid. It starts as a rock buttress, then changes to an elegant snow crest as it merges with the east shoulder of Degenhardt Glacier. On June 27, my brother Carl and I crossed from Terror Basin into the cirque by downclimbing and rappelling the steep glaciers just east of MacMillan Spire. We crossed the glacier below Inspiration Peak and gained the rib about 200 vertical feet above its toe, where a horizontal vein of dark rock cuts across toward some trees. We belayed a rightward traverse for a short lead, then started up. The rock was exceptional, and features that looked imposing from below were easily passed by turning comers or following hidden ramps. Six pitches along the rib, a steep snowfield, then four more leads in a fault just right of the crest brought us to the crux of the route. From here a grassy ramp left of the crest appeared to lead into space. A vertical comer above and a wide crack to its right were running with water. I traversed the wall to the right of the crack with minimal protection, then reached an edge beyond it and climbed carefully up and back left. One more pitch on wet, grassy hummocks led us to the snow crest. We climbed for several hundred feet along a knife-edged ridge that the evening sun lit up like a flame. We bivouacked on a shelf next to the snow. The next morning brought threatening clouds. As we hurried up the glacier, the rain began. It stayed with us to the summit horn, down the rappels to Terror Glacier, and through the soaking brush as we hiked down Goodell Creek the following day. (III or IV, mid class 5.)

Lowell Skoog