Cutthroat Peak, East Face of North Summit, North Cascades. Joe Bajan and I on September 21 did this fine route, which is about 500 feet north of the Chouinard and Burdo routes on the main east face. We followed granite flakes just right of the obvious gully in the middle of the face directly below the north summit. The second pitch ascended a large left-facing open-book for 165 feet. The third pitch went up the right side of the “Black Staircase,” which is easily seen from below. The fourth pitch finished the staircase and led up the gully to easier climbing. Eventually we got to the north summit and followed the north ridge to the main summit. (III, 5.9.)

Steven C. Risse