American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, P 9385, University Range, Wrangell Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

P 9385, University Range, Wrangell Mountains. From August 1 to 8, Bob Jacobs and I led Randy and Kathy Haines, Seth Moshman and Marvin Srulowitz to the Twaharpies Glacier area of the University Range. On August 1 we flew to the Glacier Creek landing strip and hiked up to the tongue of the Twaharpies Glacier. On August 2 and 3 we moved camp to 4300 feet, where an unnamed glacier flows into the Twaharpies Glacier from the southeast. On August 4 we moved up this glacier to 6600 feet, establishing camp below our approach route to the west ridge of P 9385. After a day’s snowfall, on August 6, we started up but at 8000 feet the visibility was less than 150 feet and so we turned back. On August 7 Jacobs, Moshman and I started up the glacier again. The glacier was heavily crevassed between 7000 and 7800 feet. From there to the saddle at 8000 feet between P 8205 and P 9385 it was a steep snow-and-ice climb. The saddle drops to 7800 feet at the base of the west ridge, which we followed to the summit. P 9385 is the westernmost peak of the ridge locally known as “Solidarity Ridge.” The ridge is five miles due west of the three Twaharpies peaks. We believe we made the first ascent of the peak.

Danny W. Kost, Unaffiliated

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