American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Gerdine

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

Mount Gerdine. Two previous ascents of Gerdine were made from the east, by Paul Crews, Sr. and Jr., Rod Wilson, George Wichman and Lowell Thomas, Jr. in 1963 and by Japanese in 1967. On April 19 Lowell Thomas, Jr. landed Mike Frank, Jim Sprott, Tom Meacham and me on the Hayes Glacier at 6000 feet. We set up camp at 7000 feet on the irregular ridge southwest of Gerdine. The next day we scrambled up this ridge to P 10,270 where the steepening ridge with blue ice and dwindling afternoon convinced us that we did not like this route. We retreated uneventfully to spend the next two days in camp while cold winds blew through the area. On April 23 we set out at 7:30 to traverse the bowl south of Gerdine to the south ridge proper just north of P 10,510. From there we climbed the south ridge over several icy pitches and then traversed along the east side of P 10,700 into the bowl east of the summit. Our route from there duplicated the original summit climb and we reached the summit (3432 meters, 11,258 feet) just after four P.M.

Gregg Higgins, Mountaineering Club of Alaska

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