Asia, China, Celestial Peak, Southeast Ridge, Solo

Publication Year: 1986.

Celestial Peak, Southeast Ridge, Solo. On August 5, I made the second ascent of Celestial Peak by a new route, climbing the southeast ridge in three days. The climb was 26 rope-lengths. Seventeen rappels down the east face brought me back to the ground. I experienced rain on eight of the 23 days I was in the Zhong Ping valley. Local people and previous expeditions indicate that September and October have more settled weather. During my stay two Japanese teams attempted the main summit of Siguniang but both were stopped well short of serious climbing due to bad weather and lack of experience. The route is seen on Plate 16, page 44 of A.A.J., 1984. It is the ridge facing the camera between light and shade.

Keith Brown