American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, China, Everest Attempt and Tragedy

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Everest Attempt and Tragedy. We were Y. Miyaji, S. Ishii, M. Nagamachi, S. Shimada, T. Sasaki, K. Hoshino, K. Ohta, Ms. M. Hasegawa, Ms. Y. Tanaka and I as leader. Our initial plan was to reach the peak on October 1, Chinese Foundation Day, I solo by the north face and the others by the northeast ridge. We set up Base Camp at 5150 meters on August 9. Camps I, II, Advance Base, IV and V we established at 5500, 6020, 6500, 7000 and 8200 on August 21, 22, 23, September 2 and 9. Loads were carried to the North Col from September 11 to 16. On the 17th Ishii, Hoshino and Sasaki were returning from the North Col for a rest at Advance Base. Ishii, who was ahead, started a surface snow slide at about 6900 meters and was buried. We searched for him from September 18 to 24 and again from September 28 to October 3. Just below the accident spot on the 3rd, I was caught in a slide but escaped from it. Climbing activities began again on October 4, but as our permit was running out, we had to abandon our attempt.

Tsuneo Hasegawa, U Tan Club, Japan

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