Everest, North Face Attempt. We tried to climb a new route on the north face of Everest to the left of the 1984 Australian route. I had intended to go solo but my wife Annie decided to accompany me and we were together on the wall. This route is very direct and good for a small team. The snow above 8000 meters was so deep that we two had no chance to reach the summit. After acclimatization climbs, from a camp at 6350 meters at the foot of the north face we climbed on August 9 to 7600 meters. On the second day, because of deep snow, we could only reach 8100 meters in the Great (Norton) Couloir, the site of the 1984 American Camp VI. On the next day we climbed to just below the Yellow Band but realized that it was impossible to reach the summit that day with the bad snow. We decided to retreat, thinking to come back later in August, but from August 15 to 25 the weather was bad and snowy. We made our last attempt, climbing to the North Col from the west, which was very dangerous because of windslabs. At 8000 meters, my wife was swept away by a windslab avalanche but luckily did not fall down the north face. I wish to emphasize the garbage at Base Camp where jeeps and trucks can go. No rain or snow will wash away plastic and paper. There are no definite toilets and so the area is polluted. We collected tins, bottles and plastic in big bags to take them back with the truck. At the last minute our liaison officer opened all the bags and threw away the garbage. He tried to burn everything, but it was impossible because of the wind. There is a nice pool at Camp II on the East Rongbuk Glacier. Gas cartridges, plastic and other things float on the surface. It is now nearly impossible to collect drinking water from it. Our high Base Camp under the north face, the same as the Australian Base in 1984, is still perfectly clean.

Pierre Beghin, Club Alpin Français