American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt. With 36 porters, our six-man expedition reached the Rupal Base Camp on August 31. On September 1, one group with five porters established Camp I at 5100 meters. At that time the conditions were excellent and the section between Camps I and II was almost without snow. On the 3rd, two members climbed to the site of Camp II at 6100 meters. That very day the bad weather started and it lasted without interruption till the end of the expedition. Bad weather and snowfall made the part between Camps I and II dangerous and difficult. There was a lot of black ice and verglas on the rocks. Despite snowfall, we fixed ropes on that part and established Camp II. On September 23 one of our members was struck by a big rock on the head and suffered a concussion. On October 2 we tried a last unsuccessful push. On October 5 we left Base Camp.

Janez Skok, Planinska zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia

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