American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Nanga Parbat. Twelve parties, including four from Japan, were given permission for Nanga Parbat in 1985. Fourteen of our expedition set up Base Camp at 4100 meters on May 21, hoping to climb the 1962 German route on the Diamir Face. We established Camps I, II and III at 5000, 6000 and 6600 meters on May 26, June 1 and 3, cooperating with the international party that had got to Base Camp three days ahead of us. On June 15 the weather worsened and we descended from near the site of Camp IV until June 27. We placed Camp IV and V at 7200 and 7600 meters on July 2 and 5. Mamoru Kikuchi and Hiroshi Hanada got to Camp V on July 7 and left for the summit the next morning at 2:30. They stood on the peak at 12:35 P.M. We found a corpse of an American we assume to be that of Bob Broughton, who died in 1977, below Camp II. We buried him with his things, heaping up a cairn beside the Diama Glacier. We mourned for him. The other members of our group were Y. Ishibashi, T. Muraoka, S. Watari, S. Hara, M. Shima, H. Shinohara, T. Hayakawa, T. Mita, M. Tanaka, T. Takasu and J. Nakamura.

Mitsuo Uematsu, Fukuoka University Alpine Club

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