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Asia, Pakistan, Passu I and II Ascents and Nanga Parbat Attempt

Passu I and II Ascents and Nanga Parbat Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Yoshitoyo Oishi, Katsuto Soejima, Naoya Yamasaki, Koji Yamauchi, Dr. Tetsuro Nishida and me as leader. We climbed the Passu peaks from the east. Our route went up the Passu Glacier, on which were two icefalls and many crevasses, which made us take a long time. We established Base Camp, Camps I,II and III at 4180, 5200, 6150 and 6840 meters on June 13, 20, 30 and July II.There was no altitude gain from Camp III to the summit of Passu II (6842 meters, 22,447 feet) but Oishi and Yamauchi had to traverse 2½ kilometers to reach the top on July 12. It was the first ascent of this peak, which lies east of Passu I. On July 14 Yamauchi and Nishida made the second ascent of Passu I (7284 meters, 23,900 feet). We had climbed the Passu peaks to acclimatize for our attempt on the southwest ridge of Nanga Parbat, the Schell route. We got to Base Camp on July 25 and made three high camps. We got to 7200 meters on August 14, but we were exhausted and lacked time. Yet our adaption to high altitude was a great success.

Isao Shinkai, Fukuoka Tokokai, Japan