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Asia, Pakistan, Diran Attempt

Diran Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Jaume Anglada, Miquel Serrat, Joan Sola, Xevi Robiró R., Xevi Roviró A. Josep Rovira, Joan Colet and me as leader. We had hoped to complete a new route up the north ridge, previously attempted by Spaniards in 1979, who got to the col at 5020 meters, and Japanese in 1981, who got to 5650 meters. On May 30 we contracted for 41 porters in the town of Minapin. In three days we got to Base Camp at 3615 meters on June 3. We placed Camp I at 4375 meters on July 5 in a spot protected from avalanches on the east glacier leading to the col. On June 10 the preparation of the route to the col was complete with some fixed ropes. The 45° to 50° slope to the col got progressively steeper and near the top there were places it was 75° to 80°. The ridge from the col to 5300 meters was steep but uniform with some rotten rock and some cornices. From 5300 to 6100 meters the ridge was much rougher with many huge overhanging séracs. The first camp site was at 5400 meters, placed there on June 21. It was a long carry from Camp I and we had some bad weather. Above Camp II we found Japanese material cached at their high point. We bypassed a great sérac on the left, found 100 meters of easier snow and again séracs and steep snow to 6000 meters, where on June 29 we placed Camp III. That night was disturbed in all camps. In Camp I a bear broke into supplies and ate up 30 man-days of food. In Camp III the climbers worried about the “steps,” a series of snow and ice towers, covered with powder snow. After five hours, we got only to the top of the first step. The towers were very unstable, continuing for over 300 meters. We lacked rope to fix the route. That same day we evacuated Camps I, II and III.

Angel Serra, Unió Excursionista de Vic, Spain