Masherbrum from the Northwest and Broad Peak. The Kansai Karakoram Expedition left Skardu and after traveling up the Baltoro Glacier, established Base Camp on the Yermanendu Glacier at 4600 meters. They placed Camp I at 5600 meters on the north ridge on June 6, but frequent collapses of the upper glacier forced them to traverse right to the northwest ridge. Camps II, III and IV were established at 6100, 6300 and 7200 meters on June 13, 29 and July 11. They fixed much rope. Above Camp IV, the northwest ridge was dangerous because of rotten rock and so they traversed further right and eventually climbed the northwest face to the col between the main and southwest peaks. The summit (7821 meters, 25,660 feet) was reached by all members on July 23. They were Shin Kashu, leader, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Jyoshi Wada, Riichi Nishzutsumi, Etsuo Terauchi, Hiraoki Ito, Yoichi Yabukawa, Munehiko Yamamoto, Tetsuya Toyama and Masashi Tatsuta. As they climbed toward the summit ridge, the team found the body of one of the Polish climbers, Marek Malatynski or P. Nowacki, who on September 17, 1981 tragically died after making the first ascent of Masherbrum Southwest. This was the third ascent of Masherbrum, which had been climbed in 1960 by Americans and in 1983 by Japanese.
Sadao Tambe, Himalayan Association of Japan