AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum II

Gasherbrum II. Four of our eight members reached the summit of Gasherbrum II. On July 16 François Germain, who is Swiss but has lived for four years in Sweden, got to the top with the Japanese Tomaji Kato. Kato’s companions, Takashi Takahashi and Masaki Matsumoto, got to the summit on July 28. On July 31 Tommy Sandberg, Per-Olof Bergstrom and I also reached the summit. Seven Frenchmen were also on top that same day. We all climbed the normal route, with camps at 6000, 6500, 7000 and 7500 meters. One of our members got to just above Camp IV but had to descend because of an intense cough and fever. Another reached Camp II but returned to Base Camp because of snowfall. Back in Base Camp, he developed a deep venous thrombosis in his right leg and was evacuated by helicopter. One member developed pneumonia after arrival in Base Camp. He reached Camp I only once. Five days before he climbed to the summit, Germain carried a female French climber down from Camp II to Camp I on his back. She was exhausted, could not walk and was hallucinating. The French doctor had almost given up hope for her life. The steepest part of the route was between Camps I and II.

Peter Weng, Svenska Fjällklubben, Sweden