American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Asia, Nepal, Tukche

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Tukche. Our expedition was composed of Kim Hak-Young, Lim Hea-Hoon, Yoon Hong-Kun, Jung Chang-Hyuk, Lee Dong-Hwan, Heo Young-Ho and me as leader. On March 2 we climbed to Dhampus Pass (5100 meters) and then descended to Hidden Valley where we established Base Camp at 4950 meters. After a snowstorm, five members on March 4 went up the north face to the north ridge of Junction Peak (5950 meters) and established Camp I, but the first summit attempt failed on March 6. We set out along a lengthy snow-and-rock ridge of technical difficulty and on March 9 reached only the top of Junction Peak (6850 meters). After this second try on Tukche failed, all members went back to Base Camp for a rest. On March 12 Yoon and Heo left a new Camp I, moved up to 6100 meters, at two A.M. At six A.M. they had to be careful and avoid the crest of the ridge with its huge overhanging cornices. From the lower col they traversed a very steep ice-and-snow slope of 50° to 60°. They were compelled to do laborious work to get to the summit. At 2:30 P.M. they finally stood on top of Tukche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet). They were there for 30 minutes and descended the same route, reaching Base Camp at 9:30 P.M.

Nam KI-Chang, Chong Ju University Alpine Club, Korea

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