Tilitso Attempt. Eight Spaniards led by José Luis García wanted to climb the north ridge, the normal route on Tilitso. Very deep fresh snow defeated them. It took seven days to ferry the loads from where the porters had dumped them, refusing to go on to Base Camp. The day after they got to Base Camp it began to snow heavily and continued until October 21. On October 22 four Spaniards and Tenzing Sherpa tried to make a fast alpine-style ascent but the snow was too deep and they turned back at 6000 meters. They pitched Camp I on October 24 at 6200 meters. The next day food and gas was knocked down the mountainside by a huge bird. Nonetheless, on October 26 Joan Granizo and Tenzing attempted to go to the summit but strong cold winds forced them to turn back at 6750 meters. By then the winds had left only hard ice on the mountain.
Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley