American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Gangapurna Attempt. After the leader, American Scott Woolums, had to drop out sick on the approach march and one Briton left the team at Base Camp, co-leader Sandy Allan, Swiss Toni Spirig and Canadian Paul Teare were the entire team. With heavy snowstorms they established Base Camp and tried to break trail and cache supplies above Base. On October 25 they started moving up the mountain but the three got no higher than 6600 meters on October 28. That night fierce winds blew apart Camp II’s tents. They descended and found the Base Camp tents also ruined. This was the end of the climb. They climbed an east spur to the north ridge, but did not actually try the north face because of much avalanching, but it was a new approach to the north ridge.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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