American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna, Northwest Face, and Dhaulagiri

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Annapurna, Northwest Face, and Dhaulagiri. Reinhold Messner, Prem Darshano, Hans Kammerlander, Reinhard Patschneider and Reinhard Schiestl established Base Camp below the northwest face of Annapurna at 4100 meters. Messner and Kammerlander reached the summit in only five days from Base Camp on April 24 by a new route, the northwest face. They started at the same point as the Swiss in the autumn of 1984 (A.A.J., 1985, page 228) but soon tended further right. They swung toward the top of the west-northwest spur but contoured left around it and continued on to the main summit. The whole route lay to the left of the French attempt in the spring of 1984 (A.A.J., 1985, pages 283-5). Camp I was at 5100 meters, Camp II at 6000 meters and they bivouacked at 7200 and 7450 meters. Messner and Kammerlander then went directly to the Dhaulagiri Base Camp. In three days they reached the summit by the normal route, on May 15, having bivouacked at 6350 and 7450 meters on the ascent and at 7450 meters on the descent. These were Messner’s eleventh and twelfth 8000ers. (We are grateful to Herr Messner for this information.)

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