Asia, Nepal, Himalchuli North

Publication Year: 1986.

Himalchuli North. Just five days after the South Koreans put a team on top of this virgin peak, two Poles made the second ascent. Zdzislaw Jakubowski and Jerzy Klincewicz went to the top on November 1 from their bivouac at 6600 meters. The expedition spent 42 days at Base Camp or above—mostly at Base—because of October’s heavy snowstorms. They were really able to move up the mountain at the end of October. They had an Advance Base and Camp I and bivouacked twice on the summit climb. The new route was up the southwest ridge to the southwest face and around to the east ridge. The leader was Wieslaw Panejko. They saw no signs of the Koreans on or near the summit.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley