Himalchuli Ascent and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Las- zlo Berzi, Sandor Csanadi, Peter Greskovits, Dr. Antal Kallo, Laszlo Katona, Jozsef Csikos, Istvan Szabo, Gyorgy Toldi, Istvan Tolnai, Csaba Toth, Laszlo Voros and I as leader. From Botha Odar we started with 63 porters, a sirdar and two Sherpas. We followed the Marsyandi Khola and then the Dordi Khola for seven days and got to Base Camp at 4550 meters. From there we climbed the 1984 American route up the southwest ridge to the west peak and from there the 1960 Japanese route. We established Camps I, II, III and IV at 5450, 6480, 7000 and 7200 meters on April 30, May 4, 12 and 22. On May 5 our two Sherpas deserted from Base Camp, taking all their equipment; we don’t know why. Csanadi and Greskovits started from Camp II to carry loads to Camp III on the morning of May 16. They did not arrive there. Probably they were swept away by heavy winds. Despite a search for them, we did not find any trace of them. On May 23 Jozsef Csikos, Laszlo Voros and Sirdar Norbu Sherpa got to the summit (7893 meters, 25,895 feet).
Pal Géza Orban, Magyar Hegymaszo Klub, Hungary