American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Ganesh I Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Ganesh I Attempt. A joint Korean-Nepalese expedition led by Park Ji-Weon had hoped to climb Ganesh I by a new route, the south ridge. They had two misfortunes before even reaching the mountain. Their baggage was so late in arriving at Kathmandu that instead of leaving in late September, they were not able to head out until October 18. Just two days before their departure, they discovered that their climbing permit was not for the south ridge but for the west ridge, which meant an approach of 11 days rather than five. The south ridge marks the Sino-Nepalese border and their planned approach would have been in China. They were belatedly informed of this by the Ministry of Tourism. Once they arrived at Base Camp, they made steady progress until on November 11 a Sherpa member dropped a load of ice and rock pitons, which fell 1000 meters down the mountain. That put an end to the climb up the difficult steep west ridge. The Koreans suspect the Sherpa intentionally lost the load. The high point of 6200 meters was reached on November 11 by leader Park, An Sung-Ho, Ang Dorje Sherpa and Ang Phuba Sherpa. They had placed three camps above Base Camp.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

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