Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu from Tibet

Publication Year: 1986.

Cho Oyu from Tibet. On April 1 a Tibetan expedition left Lhasa for Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,907 feet), the first expedition of the Tibetan Mountaineering Association to an 8000-meter peak. On April 4, they set up Base Camp on the Gyabrag Glacier* at 4959 meters. They set up Camps I, II, III, IV and V at 5400, 5700, 6300, 6900 and 7200 meters on April 14, 15, 18, 27 and 30 respectively. On the morning of May 1, before the climbers set off, it started to blow hard and to snow. But they knew that if they did not seize this good weather period, the rainy season would soon come. At 10:40 A.M., as soon as the wind and snow stopped, the assault climbers set out. After a hard struggle, at 5:50 P.M. they at long last put the five-star red flag on the summit. Nine climbers, Renquingpingchuo, Bianba, Ciren, Lawang, Danzhenduonji, Gesang, (big) Duobujie, (small) Duobujie and Wangjia, reached the summit.

Ying Dao-Shui, Chinese Mountaineering Association

*The route appears to be identical to that by which Tichy made the first ascent with Pasang Dawa Lama in 1954, which is the normal route by which the mountain has usually been climbed.—Editor.