AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu, Scientific and Climbing Expedition

Cho Oyu, Scientific and Climbing Expedition. We had a medical team, Drs. Julio Alberdi, José Martínez, María Jesús Alvarado and me as leader, and climbers Juan José Amezgaray, Atxo Apellaniz, Iñaki Kerejeta, Xabier López de Gereñu, Juan Oiarzabal, Miguel Ruiz de Apodaca and Felipe Uriarte. We climbed Cho Oyu by the normal route. We reached Base Camp at 5200 meters on April 19. We established Advance Base, Camps I, II, III and IV at 5700, 5850, 6400, 7050 and 7500 meters on April 24, May 9, 11,13 and 14. On May 15 Oiarzabal, Amezgaray, Ruiz de Apodaca and Kerejeta got to the summit, followed on May 17 by Uriarte, Apellaniz and me. We had a 280-kilogram aluminum hut for a lab. We got data from Oxylog recorders of the percent consumption of oxygen to 7050 meters. One member wore a Holter Avionics recorder to the summit. The rest of the scientific work, except for certain py- schological tests, was done at Base Camp.

Xabier Garaioa M.D., Federación Vasca de Montaña, Spain