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Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. We climbed the normal southwest ridge route on Pumori. Climbing began on April 10 and on the 11th we set up Camp I at 5700 meters. There were no climbing problems in getting to Camp I but the route was threatened from the left (Kala Patar) side by ice- and rockfall. We fixed rope above Camp I. Camp II was set up on April 15 at 6100 meters at the foot of the towers on the southwest ridge. Our female member, Margret Gabl, reached Camp II. Between Camps II and III we had rock of UIAA Grade III and IV and ice up to 60┬░. We fixed 1000 meters of rope up to Camp III, which we established at 6550 meters on April 18. We found there the damaged tent of the ill-fated American 1984-5 winter expedition but saw no signs of their bodies. On April 21 Markus Fringer, Adreas Praxmarer and Josef Kathrein climbed steep ice and then easier slopes to reach the summit (7161 meters, 23,494 feet) in five hours. On April 23 Alfred Rainer, Wolfgang Wippler and Dr. Gerhard Kienpointer got to the top. On April 26 I reached the summit with Sherpa Ang Lhakpa. We removed most of our fixed rope.

Arthur Haid, ├ľsterreichischer Alpenverein