AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Attempt and Tragedy

Lhotse Attempt and Tragedy. A very strong Polish expedition, which included Krzysztof Wielicki and Jerzy Kukuczka was led by Janusz Majer. They established six camps and fixed much rope on the right side of the south face. Up to about 7600 meters their route was largely the same as that of the Czech- oslavaks on Lhotse Shar in the spring of 1984. From there they traversed upward to the left. On October 22 Miroslaw Dasal, Walenty Fiut and Artur Hajzer climbed to 8200 meters and retreated. On the 25th Rafal Cholda retreated with Kukuczka on an attempt to get higher and fell to his death while descending to Camp VI. Another try was made by three Poles and Frenchman Vincent Fine from the neighboring expedition who got to 8050 meters on November 1. Extremely difficult rock climbing on a very steep face at high altitudes, strong winds and exhaustion from two months of climbing defeated this strong party.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley