American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Cholatse, Tawoche, Ama Dablam and Tragedy on Ama Dablam

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Ama Dablam, North Ridge. Our expedition was composed of Casimiro Ferrari, leader, Bruno Lambardini, Giuliano Maresi, Mario Panzeri, Daniele Valsecchi, Dr. Sandro Giati and me. Having left Italy on March 24, we were at Base Camp at 5100 meters three weeks later. After organizing material and shooting some of our documentary film, on April 15 we attacked the north ridge of Ama Dablam by the 1979 route of the French. All except the doctor reached the summit on April 23 in nine days of alpine-style climbing. The bottom 600-meter-high rock triangle of IV to V UIAA difficulty was followed by a narrow ice-and-mixed crest. At 6300 meters was a second difficult rock step of 300 meters. From the top of that buttress we climbed a nearly vertical couloir to the summit ridge. In this last part we had to pay attention to enormous séracs on the crest which we had to climb over or bypass on the side. Although we climbed alpine-style, we found in places fixed rope left by the Swiss in 1983. Our weather was excellent except for one day when we were storm-bound. This let us film the whole of this beautiful and impressive ridge.

Carlo Aldè, Club Alpino Italiano

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.