American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Makalu Winter Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Makalu Winter Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Keizo Nakano, Akitsugu Nishimura, Toyuru Akimoto, Osamu Nagashima, Hiroshi Takagi, Michiko Sonoda and me as leader. We established Base Camp on November 22 at 4800 meters at the end of the Barun Glacier. After placing a temporary camp at the end of the Chago Glacier on November 28, we established Camp I at 5900 meters on December 2. Camp II at 6600 meters was set on the Kukuczka ridge on December 11. Camp III was placed on December 15 at 7140 meters directly below the rock wall of the northwest buttress. From there Nishimura and I reached 7520 meters. On December 23 the second and last summit try was given up because of fierce winds which destroyed four tents.

Hiroyuki Baba, Den Den Mountaineering Club, Japan

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