Asia, Nepal, Makalu

Publication Year: 1986.

Makalu. Our members were Fausto De Stefani, Fabio Stedile, Almo Giam- bisi, Spaniard Juanju José San Sebastián and I as leader. We got to Base Camp at 5400 meters on August 30. We reconnoitered the south spur of Makalu but there was too much snow and we turned to the west face. We placed Camp I at 5850 meters still on rock and on September 8 Camp II at 6750 meters. After several tries hindered by deep snow, on September 22 we placed Camp III on Makalu La at 7400 meters before returning to Base Camp. On September 28 we went straight up to Camp II and on the 29th to Camp III. We set up Camp IV at 7850 meters on the 30th, having followed a part of the Polish Kukuczka route. We left Camp IV early on October 1 in deep snow. We fixed some rope to safeguard the descent. It was not till six P.M. that we got to the summit. The descent was in the moonlight. We were the first Italian group to climb Makalu.

Sergio Martini, Club Alpino Italiano