Ohmi Kangri. Our Swiss expedition managed to make the first ascent of the main peak of Ohmi Kangri in northeast Nepal, a mountain that has been confused with Nupchu. We ascended the Tamur valley to reach Base Camp, beyond Yangma village, at 5130 meters on March 23. After having found a route through the icefall, we placed Camp I at 5700 meters on the West Ohmi Glacier. We turned east and climbed to the southwest ridge on which we placed Camp II at 6250 meters on March 30. We had to fix 420 meters of rope on April 10 before we got to Camp III at 6610 meters just before the junction with the southeast ridge. The next section was delicate because of enormous cornices overhanging the Tibetan side. A reconnaissance reached the 6800-meter middle summit which was the high point of the Japanese expedition in 1982; they did not continue to the higher northwest summit. The next day, April 14, this main summit (6829 meters, 22,405 feet) was reached by André Rieder and Alain Vaucher. The summit was again visited on April 18 by Terenzio Rossetti, Nicholas Wyrsch, Daniel Chevallier and Michel Alplanalp and on April 20 by Nepalese Ang Nima and Dawa Nuru and Swiss Hans Dielhelm, François Veillème and me. We were a joint Nepalese-Swiss expedition without high-altitude porters. We used no supplementary oxygen.
Ruedi Meier, Club Alpin Suisse