American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Kabru Dome

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1986

Kabru Dome. Our joint Franco-Indian Army expedition led by Colonel Bal- want Sandhu and me had as its objective training for the expedition we hoped to carry out on Kangchenjunga. When permission for this was refused, we later turned to Kamet. (See below.) We were in the field from March 13 to 18. We made our approach from Yoksum to Base Camp at Jamlingang at 4150 meters from March 18 to 20. Advance Base was set up on March 24 at 4700 meters. After making a high camp on March 26, we reconnoitered the icefall on the Kabru Glacier but because of avalanche danger returned to Advance Base. We set up a new Camp I at the foot of the unclimbed south spur of Kabru Dome and then set up Camp II on April 2. On April 3 Sergeant L. Mailly and I with Indian climbers reached the summit (6600 meters, 21,655 feet). The try for Kabru East on the next two days was beaten back by wind and cold. On April 5 Chef de Bataillon F. Leray and other Indians reached the summit of Kabru Dome. A total of 16 Indians climbed the peak. The climb was comparable to the Brenva Face of Mont Blanc.

Jean-Claude Marmier, Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne

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